#Hoscale Instagram Photos & Videos

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Latest #Hoscale Posts

  •  24  2  1 hour ago
  • A fresh T386 rounds the curve into Armstrong, on the AMRA Vic layout, November 2019
  • A fresh T386 rounds the curve into Armstrong, on the AMRA Vic layout, November 2019

  •  23  1  2 hours ago
  • #hoscale #modeltrains #openhouse #thankyou

Thank you to the Facebook pages that allowed us to share our Open House this weekend.  A short video of trains operating at the Northwest Illinois Model Railroad Club on Main Street in Chadwick Illinois today.  We would like to thank any of your members that were our visitors for taking the time to stop by.  We will be having another Open House on the third weekend of March 2020.  The Stephenson Society of Model Railroaders better known as the Fever River Railroad in Freeport Illinois will be having their Open House next weekend.  Details on their Facebook Page.
  • #hoscale #modeltrains #openhouse #thankyou

    Thank you to the Facebook pages that allowed us to share our Open House this weekend. A short video of trains operating at the Northwest Illinois Model Railroad Club on Main Street in Chadwick Illinois today. We would like to thank any of your members that were our visitors for taking the time to stop by. We will be having another Open House on the third weekend of March 2020. The Stephenson Society of Model Railroaders better known as the Fever River Railroad in Freeport Illinois will be having their Open House next weekend. Details on their Facebook Page.

  •  4  0  8 hours ago
  • My old man has a transitional period train table in HO scale.  He really likes tanks, (I think it runs in the family). While this isn't exactly the model for the period, the merdc scheme is close enough.  I told him we'd paint it for the 1970s, and this'll work.  This considerably bigger than a hobbit.

#hoscale #modeltank #hobby #autumncamo #art #merdc #m1abrams #painting #paintingminiatures
  • My old man has a transitional period train table in HO scale. He really likes tanks, (I think it runs in the family). While this isn't exactly the model for the period, the merdc scheme is close enough. I told him we'd paint it for the 1970s, and this'll work. This considerably bigger than a hobbit.

    #hoscale #modeltank #hobby #autumncamo #art #merdc #m1abrams #painting #paintingminiatures

  •  6  0  8 hours ago
  • Sorry for the long hiatus.  Been busy with life! Anyway here is an update we started to clean out the basement and the trains going to remove the layout section in one piece "hopefully". Finally made plans for the basement living area and train room. Train room will be about 15ft by 13ft. Will be a double deck layout as of now. Hope to have more progress pics in the next coming months. Thanks for sticking around!! #trains #hoscale #hoscaletrains #modeltrains #modelrailway #steam #trainroom #layout #plans
  • Sorry for the long hiatus. Been busy with life! Anyway here is an update we started to clean out the basement and the trains going to remove the layout section in one piece "hopefully". Finally made plans for the basement living area and train room. Train room will be about 15ft by 13ft. Will be a double deck layout as of now. Hope to have more progress pics in the next coming months. Thanks for sticking around!! #trains #hoscale #hoscaletrains #modeltrains #modelrailway #steam #trainroom #layout #plans

  •  85  1  10 hours ago
  • THE HAZZARD RANGE HERALD
5:29 PM  Monday  11/18/2019 
Hazzard Range County Sheriff’s office  Deputy  George  Carols  took a report of property thief in the 100 block (Inter County Railway service center ) of  Carben rd . Scene investigated and cleared . 
#hoscale  #diecast  #model  # toy  #stories 
To see more of my work go to https://www.flickr.com/gp/icr140/55uZ35
  • THE HAZZARD RANGE HERALD
    5:29 PM Monday 11/18/2019
    Hazzard Range County Sheriff’s office Deputy George Carols took a report of property thief in the 100 block (Inter County Railway service center ) of Carben rd . Scene investigated and cleared .
    #hoscale #diecast #model # toy #stories
    To see more of my work go to https://www.flickr.com/gp/icr140/55uZ35

  •  4  0  10 hours ago
  • The track is down on the extension and it was a breeze. If you use commercial available track, my basic method might help you get to running sooner and without problems! You’ll need ~ • flush cutters • med-grit sandpaper • wood glue • hobby knife • CA glue • jewelers files • solder & soldering iron • tweezers

Prep • I glued my trackplan print out directly to my benchwork for precision, adding centerlines to all the lengths of track to be laid. This will aid you in laying roadbed. 
1• using wood glue I adhered my cork to the track centerlines I drew. For areas with turnouts, I trimmed the roadbed bit by bit until it fit the centerline as well as the curve of the turnout when placed on top. After the glue cured, I sanded both sides for a smooth bevel and the top to clear up any bumps. 
2• I prepped all my turnouts before laying by snipping off the extra ties molded to the assembly (peco track only) and checking the rail ends for flash. I started with the turnout closest to the addition connection point. Keeping the glue away from the working areas I let it dry completely. 
3• When working with flex always make sure the rail ends are clean and clear of flash for a flush fit and easier soldering later on. I used my flat file for the face and a triangle to get between the webs of rail. 
4• I worked my way down from the first switch with the flex. I use the same wood glue for fixing the track down as I do with the roadbed, it sets up quick and dries strong. You can use foam pins, tacks or nails to hold the track down to dry depending on your scenery base material. I found painters tape works well too.
5•  I ran my power bus after glueing my track plan down. Once your track is all laid you can drill holes for feeders, prep feeder wires and solder them and your track connections all in. I covered this in detail a while ago in a previous tutorial “Track Soldering & Feeders” 
6• I cleaned up all the soldered rail connections with my files. I used a freight car with metal wheels to check the smoothness and consistency and make adjustments if needed. ~~~the rest of this tutorial is in the comment section~~~
  • The track is down on the extension and it was a breeze. If you use commercial available track, my basic method might help you get to running sooner and without problems! You’ll need ~ • flush cutters • med-grit sandpaper • wood glue • hobby knife • CA glue • jewelers files • solder & soldering iron • tweezers

    Prep • I glued my trackplan print out directly to my benchwork for precision, adding centerlines to all the lengths of track to be laid. This will aid you in laying roadbed.
    1• using wood glue I adhered my cork to the track centerlines I drew. For areas with turnouts, I trimmed the roadbed bit by bit until it fit the centerline as well as the curve of the turnout when placed on top. After the glue cured, I sanded both sides for a smooth bevel and the top to clear up any bumps.
    2• I prepped all my turnouts before laying by snipping off the extra ties molded to the assembly (peco track only) and checking the rail ends for flash. I started with the turnout closest to the addition connection point. Keeping the glue away from the working areas I let it dry completely.
    3• When working with flex always make sure the rail ends are clean and clear of flash for a flush fit and easier soldering later on. I used my flat file for the face and a triangle to get between the webs of rail.
    4• I worked my way down from the first switch with the flex. I use the same wood glue for fixing the track down as I do with the roadbed, it sets up quick and dries strong. You can use foam pins, tacks or nails to hold the track down to dry depending on your scenery base material. I found painters tape works well too.
    5• I ran my power bus after glueing my track plan down. Once your track is all laid you can drill holes for feeders, prep feeder wires and solder them and your track connections all in. I covered this in detail a while ago in a previous tutorial “Track Soldering & Feeders”
    6• I cleaned up all the soldered rail connections with my files. I used a freight car with metal wheels to check the smoothness and consistency and make adjustments if needed. ~~~the rest of this tutorial is in the comment section~~~

  •  459  10  11 hours ago

Top #Hoscale Posts

  • The track is down on the extension and it was a breeze. If you use commercial available track, my basic method might help you get to running sooner and without problems! You’ll need ~ • flush cutters • med-grit sandpaper • wood glue • hobby knife • CA glue • jewelers files • solder & soldering iron • tweezers

Prep • I glued my trackplan print out directly to my benchwork for precision, adding centerlines to all the lengths of track to be laid. This will aid you in laying roadbed. 
1• using wood glue I adhered my cork to the track centerlines I drew. For areas with turnouts, I trimmed the roadbed bit by bit until it fit the centerline as well as the curve of the turnout when placed on top. After the glue cured, I sanded both sides for a smooth bevel and the top to clear up any bumps. 
2• I prepped all my turnouts before laying by snipping off the extra ties molded to the assembly (peco track only) and checking the rail ends for flash. I started with the turnout closest to the addition connection point. Keeping the glue away from the working areas I let it dry completely. 
3• When working with flex always make sure the rail ends are clean and clear of flash for a flush fit and easier soldering later on. I used my flat file for the face and a triangle to get between the webs of rail. 
4• I worked my way down from the first switch with the flex. I use the same wood glue for fixing the track down as I do with the roadbed, it sets up quick and dries strong. You can use foam pins, tacks or nails to hold the track down to dry depending on your scenery base material. I found painters tape works well too.
5•  I ran my power bus after glueing my track plan down. Once your track is all laid you can drill holes for feeders, prep feeder wires and solder them and your track connections all in. I covered this in detail a while ago in a previous tutorial “Track Soldering & Feeders” 
6• I cleaned up all the soldered rail connections with my files. I used a freight car with metal wheels to check the smoothness and consistency and make adjustments if needed. ~~~the rest of this tutorial is in the comment section~~~
  • The track is down on the extension and it was a breeze. If you use commercial available track, my basic method might help you get to running sooner and without problems! You’ll need ~ • flush cutters • med-grit sandpaper • wood glue • hobby knife • CA glue • jewelers files • solder & soldering iron • tweezers

    Prep • I glued my trackplan print out directly to my benchwork for precision, adding centerlines to all the lengths of track to be laid. This will aid you in laying roadbed.
    1• using wood glue I adhered my cork to the track centerlines I drew. For areas with turnouts, I trimmed the roadbed bit by bit until it fit the centerline as well as the curve of the turnout when placed on top. After the glue cured, I sanded both sides for a smooth bevel and the top to clear up any bumps.
    2• I prepped all my turnouts before laying by snipping off the extra ties molded to the assembly (peco track only) and checking the rail ends for flash. I started with the turnout closest to the addition connection point. Keeping the glue away from the working areas I let it dry completely.
    3• When working with flex always make sure the rail ends are clean and clear of flash for a flush fit and easier soldering later on. I used my flat file for the face and a triangle to get between the webs of rail.
    4• I worked my way down from the first switch with the flex. I use the same wood glue for fixing the track down as I do with the roadbed, it sets up quick and dries strong. You can use foam pins, tacks or nails to hold the track down to dry depending on your scenery base material. I found painters tape works well too.
    5• I ran my power bus after glueing my track plan down. Once your track is all laid you can drill holes for feeders, prep feeder wires and solder them and your track connections all in. I covered this in detail a while ago in a previous tutorial “Track Soldering & Feeders”
    6• I cleaned up all the soldered rail connections with my files. I used a freight car with metal wheels to check the smoothness and consistency and make adjustments if needed. ~~~the rest of this tutorial is in the comment section~~~

  •  459  10  11 hours ago